I love getting together with long-time friends in Japan. And there is no one more long time than my friends Anri and Yass. I think I met Anri around 1994 or so on a plane ride returning from Tokyo (basically I passed out for the first 12 hours, and then we chatted for the last 2 hours before landing). Every since then its been good times both state side and in Tokyo. Last night was no exception. Yass picked a fantastic fugu (a.k.a poisonous blowfish) restaurant in Ueno park — Innsyoutei. Everything was excellent — the ambience, service, and the food (from first course to dessert). Highly recommend it.
Izakayas are local establishments where you go to unwind with a few beers and some light snacks or small meal. Beer is cold and fresh, food is hot and tasty, and the service is efficient and friendly.
We spent a fantastic two-day stay at the Kagaya onsen in Wakura (on the west coast of Japan). There are two primary activities — relaxing in the thermal baths and eating. Probably more the second than the first. The Wakura area is famous for its fresh seafood and the elaborate meals bring almost every conceivable variety and preparation one could imagine. Some highlights below (but there was much more in only our 2 days).
While Kai intently watches us eating, he is still not ready for cheesesteaks or the like. But in Japan, there is a traditional eating ceremony or okuizome which symbolizes the hopes that Kai would never worry about food in future.
The contrast between the start of 2010 and 2011 is representative of our own transformations. NYE 2010 was spent skiing in France with 20+ friends in a rented chalet, with huge dinner, drinking, dancing, etc. 2011 was spent off in another continent in a sea town on the West coast of Japan. A small cozy dinner at Chika’s aunt and uncle’s house and later a trip to the temple.
The temple ritual focuses on ringing the ceremonial bell around midnight, and its meaning is about letting go of our wants and desires, 108 to be exact. Kai had finally gone to sleep around 11pm, so Chika decided to stay home with him while I went with Yukie, Megumi, and the uncle’s family to the temple.
After queuing and ringing the bell, we went into the temple for a quick trip into the sanctuary, followed by a traditional bowl of noodle soup. We sat in the communal area around the fire, enjoying hot soup, some sake, and interesting company. The monk of the temple came over for a nice chat. As he seemed quite young, I am sure we will meet again for many more New Years in the future.
In reflection, it is has been a great year for us to grow as a family, in many ways. Both Chika and I have had fantastic adventures travelling and enjoying many things around the world. But now the center of our universe is changed with Kai. We will not completely stop travelling or exploring, but will do it as part of Kai’s growing experiences as well. He is fortunate to have loving families and rich traditions from both East and West to start experiencing early on in his life. And Chika and I will now focus on enjoying the ride alongside him. So begins 2011.
Although a bit dark, you can at least hear the bell ringing here.
It was great to see my long-time friend Prof. Harumasa Sato and his family in Kobe and introduce Kai (I say long-time friend, because I don’t like using the word old after 40). We got to see the new faculty building in Nishinomiya — so modern and clean that it makes all the places I’ve studied in look like tenaments. We enjoyed a pleasant Japanese meal together, and Kai treated us by sleeping through 90%.
To most Americans, ramen is the college students most economical sustenance — cheap starchy noodles and MSG packest which could could be made in a simple hotpot and sell as cheaply at 10 for a dollar (at least back in the 80’s when I was in school).
But on the other side of the world in Japan, Ramen is as passionate as any western form of simplely purveyed foods such as pizza, burgers, and tacos can be. Probably even more so. The recipes are fairly similar — noodles with various meat/vegetables served in a choice of broths (salt, miso, soy) — but the differences while subtle create the passion for the best. The broths cook in huge pots over the days and are the most heavily guarded secrets — even the staff aren’t told for fear they might go renegade with the recipes.
Today we went to Chika’s local shop, Kazuki. There are 100’s ramen shops, and probably just as many blogs just about Ramen, so I won’t go into the details of my novice experience, but this piece from the New York Times was quite good.
Have you ever wondered what would happen if you completed removed all religious connotations or context from Christmas? Then you should come to Japan.
Even the most bustling cities in the West, including Manhattan, come to a standstill (or at least a slow crawl) for Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. I fondly remember the days of walking into Nobu Next Door without a reservation on Christmas Eve and being directly seated without even a snippet of attitude.
Having encountered Shibuya (shopping and outing epicenter of Tokyo) on both Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, it was the completely different experience — the Commercial Christmas. A great excuse to buy special foods, go out on dates or with friends, shop for that last minute presents, etc. And everyone gets in on the game. Cakes for Christmas, champagne for Christmas, special bagels for Christmas, and even special KFC for Christmas (interesting post about that here.)
So if you are not going to be with the family drinking eggnog and singing carols, next time I’d recommend jumping on a plane and enjoy a decadent holiday of a different kind in Tokyo.
